Thursday, September 3, 2009
IKEA toy kitchen for my girls
IKEA parts used:Fridge frame:
EFFEKTIV WALL CABINET - 40105241
Fridge door: EFFEKTIVE FILE FRAME FRONT - 70151203
Sink Cabinet: EFFEKTIV WALL CABINET - 40105241
Sink Doors: EFFEKTIVE DOORS - 60109455
Stove/Oven: ANEBODA NIGHTSTAND - 30121760
Sink: TROFAST STORAGE BOX - 80089239
Oven Door Handle: LANSA 10 1/16" - 40138760
Sink Door Handles: LANSA 10 1/16" - 40138760
Fridge Door Handle: LANSA 21 7/16" - 60138759
GRAND TOTAL FOR IKEA PARTS: $178.96
I also bought 4", 6" and 8" CAPITA legs to adjust the height of the kitchen as my girls get taller. I'm currently using the 4" legs.As noted above, the range is a hacked Aneboda night stand. I basically cut it down so it matched the height of the EFFEKTIV cabinet. The oven door is the original drawer front. I used a sliding friction bracket and chain (both from Rockler.com) to prevent the door from opening too fast and keeping it from opening past 90 degrees. The door is secured using a 12" piano hinge (hardwareandtools.com). All of the electronics, including LEDs, are hidden and cannot be reached by the kids. In the oven, there are eight red LEDs mounted in two rows under darkly tinted plexiglass (eplastics.com). These lights are powered by 4 AA batteries and are controlled by the switch above the burners. Each burner contains 4 red LEDs that are mounted underneath drain grates (NDS Grates) that I purchased from Home Depot. I also placed some clear plexiglass in the drain grates so nothing falls in between the slots. I used some metal vent caps on the underside of the burners so you can’t see the wires underneath. These drain grates are placed in 4 ¼” holes that I cut out using a hole saw bit and are then secured to the top of the night stand using mirror brackets that I painted black to match the drain grates. Each burner is controlled by switched potentiometers with radio knobs from Radio Shack. The wiring and circuit board are located in the space between the burners and the stove, and can be accessed by removing the knobs and pulling the off panel in front or by unscrewing the panel in back. All 16 LEDs in the burners are powered by another 4 AA batteries.
The sink cabinet and refrigerator are both Effektiv wall cabinets, with the latter being used on its side. I cut a hole in the top of the sink cabinet to set the TROFAST storage box and holes for the faucet (purchased on Overstock.com). I also reused some IKEA parts from the Aneboda nightstand to build a middle support and a shelf. In order to convert the frame front to a door for the refrigerator, I drilled some holes in the frame front using a forstner bit to accommodate the IKEA door hinges.
For the circuit board, I used a modular breadboard from RadioShack. I was going to attempt to make my own printed circuit board, but I didn’t have the time to do so, and my wife would’ve killed me if I spent more time on this. Anyhow, to ensure that the LEDs in the burners increased linearly in intensity, I created a pulse width modulator (PWM) circuit using a 555 chip for each burner. If anyone is interested, I can provide the details of the circuit separately (it’s not really legible right now as I created it over many late nights after teaching myself about circuits). Well, that’s about it. Oh, the total came to roughly $400 for the entire project.